Can you grow Sinningia from cuttings? Or, how to propagate Sinningia.

 

Regarding the first question, the answer is: it depends.

Since many people get introduced to growing houseplants in the context of things like pothos, I think people have a natural assumption that taking and propagating cuttings is a normal part of the "houseplant game".  Unfortunately, not all plants agree to play that game.  So as you branch out into more esoteric plants, you'll want to get to know their habits.

Sinningias can be considered to fall into roughly two groups.  Those with sort-of determinate growth, and those with more indeterminate growth.  You may have heard these terms in conjunction with tomato varieties.  The idea is similar, though Sinningias of course are not grown as annual crops.  In short, some plants will produce stems with a terminal size, more or less, while others, can just keep on going and going until frost cuts it off.  The former is "determinate", the latter "indeterminate".  

Sinningia sellovii is an excellent example of indeterminate growth habit.  The stems are of variable lenght with many pairs of leaves, and they flower on top.  Also, notably, the stems can also branch, before or after flowering, or in response to damage at the apex.  This branching tells you there is potential at those nodes to also form roots, and they can and will do so.  Success rate is variable with rooting these and getting them to produce tubers, but I'd say at least 50% of cuttings I've tried will do it.  You want those tubers to form, because that is what ensures the rooted cutting will survive as a plant on its own long term.  If you try it, root them in potting media of choice.  

IMPORTANT: if you try this approach, root stem cuttings, not leaf cuttings.  As far as I know, leaf cuttings, as is done with violets, will not root for any species.

Sinningia leuchotricha, one of the most popular sinningia, is a good example of determinate growth.  The stem grows up, has leaves and flowers at the top, and more or less that is the end of the story.  The leaves collect light energy and feed that tuber all summer, then dry up and fall off at the end of summer.  Sinningia with this habit generally don't root well, if at all, from cuttings, and will similarly not produce a tuber if they do.  I will concede there are occasional exceptions, where if you get just enough tuber chunk with the stem, the tuber chunk may form roots and successfully likewise a new tuber.  This is pretty hard to pull off though.  

Well...fine then how does one propagate Sinningia leucotricha and its kin?  From seed of course!  Its pretty easy to pollinate them, and sown relatively fresh, the seed often has amazingly high germination rates.  I like to use those clamshell containers that salad greens come in.  Partially fill with your soil mix of choice, sprinkle the seed on top, mist to settle the seed down.  Close lid and keep warm.  Germination usually takes a couple weeks. 

Now I said "roughly two groups".  There's a third flavor, and then still legend tells of a forth propagation option.

The third flavor of Sinningia is those that naturally form satellite tubers.  Most of these are also indeterminate or semi-indeterminate in habit.  A satellite tuber is an extra tuber that forms on its own along the stem somewhere, or on a stolon.  Species that can do this include Sinningia bullata and eumorpha.  In these, you can keep the extra tubers together, or separate them out as individuals to share when they get some mass to them.  Despite the formation of satellite tubers, I haven't seen bullata successfully root from cuttings without having an already existing tuber, however, and so far they only produce satellite tubers on young plants.  Perhaps more testing needs to be done.

The final option for propagating sinningia, after 1) seed, 2) cuttings, 3) satellite tubers, is *drumroll please* 4) cutting tubers.  In theory you cut top to bottom splitting the growing point in half or thirds, like one might split other kinds of tubers.  I have not tried this, so I cannot advocate for any level of efficacy.  I find the idea horrifying, honestly, since it so much easier to produce a large number of new, happy baby tubers by seed, and if you cut a tuber, you now have some weird looking tubers.  So that means if you try it, you're on your own.  But if you have tried it, please do comment below and tell us how it went!

PS: looking for where to get some sinningia plants to get you started?  Browse the available plants at juliaredman.com!!  :D

Dormancy Cycles in Sinningia

Sinningia leucotricha is a species that has a normal, leafless dormancy phase. They can be grown without this, particularly when young, but it is normal for them, and I think can result in better blooming cycles. However, if you are not used to keeping houseplants that are strongly seasonal in their growth, or even plants that produce a minimum of new foliage each year, this might be alarming to you. So let's discuss. 

 The first thing I need you to do is not panic. :)

So what does it look like?  First, the foliage starts looking tired.  It can even start looking like there is a nitrogen deficiency, like these plants here.

Sinningia leucotricha seedlings with mature, aging foliage; semi dormant

How do you differentiate between nitrogen deficiency and dormancy? Well, I don't have a perfect answer for this, but largely I would consider "stage" or "season". In older plants that have been trained to seasonal growth through warm, damp summers and cool, dry winters, obviously they start to visibly shut down their foliage in the fall. But if you are an apartment dweller, and the plant gets only small seasonal changes, it is going to decide on its own when its time to take a nap. Here, you need to consider how long has the foliage been on the plant. Has the foliage been in place a while, and suddenly started looking trashy? If so, dormancy is likely. This may eventually align with the seasons, particularly on a windowsill, since the seasonal changes in light intensity and window draftiness will give the plant some signals.

As a side comment, I don't find the species to be a particularly heavy feeder, so by that token, nitrogen deficiency is automatically unlikely. Of course, it is also never quite impossible. Just make sure you feed it "sometimes."

If you see your plant doing this, perhaps slack off on the watering a little, letting it dry out more or for a little longer between watering, but wouldn't withhold completely.

Eventually, the plant may just get over itself and pop out some new growth, like the wee leaves you see starting here:

Sinningia leucotricha seedling with new apical growth

In this case, just continue on with normal care like nothing happened.

But the plant may fully shut down the foliage like you see here:

Leafless-dormant Sinningia leucotricha seedlings

It may even be crunchy-dry:

Crunchy Sinningia leucotricha foliage

I repeat: please do not panic.

At this point, we will similate a "dry winter". Ideally this means cooler temperatures - I usually keep plants around 55F in an unheated basement, but work with what you have. I've also just set plants aside on a cool tile floor away from the heat. You'll also dramatically reduce water at this stage. You can still water *a little*, on occasion, but bias toward bottom watering to avoid getting the crown of the tuber wet. Be patient. Accept that the plant needs a nap. As long as that tuber looks plump and undamaged, all is fine.

If the foliage seems to come off easily, take it off. Don't force it though, you don't want to chance damaging the crown by ripping the little stem off.

Remember to check on it periodically, see how it looks, see if there is any change. What you are watching for is this:

Fuzzy new Sinningia leucotricha growth!

Its wakingup! When you see this, you can put it back in high light if you've moved it off elsewhere while dormant, start increasing water, and maybe feed it at this stage. The plant is entering its spring/summer phase.

From here, you know pretty much what to expect. It will grow new foliage, sometimes one stalk, sometimes a few. It may flower soon, when the foliage is partially grown but not mature. During and after flowering the foliage will continue to expand until it reaches its full size for the season, at which point it will be a medium silver-green color. Then it turns to bulking up its tuber. The foliage may not change much, or at all from here to the end of the growing season, but the plant is busy doing important work below the soil surface to prepare for next winter.

You will likely find that each year, the foliage will increase in size or leaf count as the tuber increases in size. Enjoy watching the show each spring, knowing you've done a good job over the past year to help it prepare for the event.

For more photos and chit chat about this species in various stages of development, including a look at my oldest plant entering dormancy last fall and the beginnings of its show this spring, check out the instagram hashtag #pgcsinningialeucotricha.