tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21126903196932906632024-03-20T16:08:37.873-04:00The Plant Geek ChroniclesJuliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.comBlogger172125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-17994773366199257892024-03-20T15:34:00.005-04:002024-03-20T16:07:36.592-04:00Can you grow Sinningia from cuttings? Or, how to propagate Sinningia.<p> </p><p>Regarding the first question, the answer is: it depends.</p><p>Since
many people get introduced to growing houseplants in the context of
things like pothos, I think people have a natural assumption that taking
and propagating cuttings is a normal part of the "houseplant game".
Unfortunately, not all plants agree to play that game. So as you branch
out into more esoteric plants, you'll want to get to know their habits.</p><p>Sinningias
can be considered to fall into roughly two groups. Those with sort-of <span class="BxUVEf ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc">determinate</span></span> growth, and those with more indeterminate growth. You may have
heard these terms in conjunction with tomato varieties. The idea is
similar, though Sinningias of course are not grown as annual crops. In
short, some plants will produce stems with a terminal size, more or
less, while others, can just keep on going and going until frost cuts it
off. The former is "<span class="BxUVEf ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc">determinate</span></span>", the latter "indeterminate". </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fjF81300dRWoY8OkggDlVrQHuj78ks_9xd7zMiUPh1-obM8DTJVNkHwjerXTCAUM5TH6qu4nFUOTg9TYrzwxHC3FfATSLP9QSkBBR_h59sf-h1X_CrmtWPjC6I34UWONHyn-WN6L_gYDhh392hGVKOqLtWbBW4YGA649CcoghttbPc-nYpG5-q3dwn7J/s4032/IMG_6363.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sinningia sellovii" border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fjF81300dRWoY8OkggDlVrQHuj78ks_9xd7zMiUPh1-obM8DTJVNkHwjerXTCAUM5TH6qu4nFUOTg9TYrzwxHC3FfATSLP9QSkBBR_h59sf-h1X_CrmtWPjC6I34UWONHyn-WN6L_gYDhh392hGVKOqLtWbBW4YGA649CcoghttbPc-nYpG5-q3dwn7J/w240-h320/IMG_6363.jpg" title="Sinningia sellovii" width="240" /></a></div><p>Sinningia
sellovii is an excellent example of indeterminate growth habit. The
stems are of variable lenght with many pairs of leaves, and they flower
on top. Also, notably, the stems can also <i>branch</i>, before or
after flowering, or in response to damage at the apex. This branching
tells you there is potential at those nodes to also form roots, and they
can and will do so. Success rate is variable with rooting these and
getting them to produce tubers, but I'd say at least 50% of cuttings
I've tried will do it. You want those tubers to form, because that is
what ensures the rooted cutting will survive as a plant on its own long
term. If you try it, root them in potting media of choice. </p><p>IMPORTANT: if you try this approach, root stem cuttings, not leaf cuttings. As far as I know, leaf cuttings, as is done with violets, will not root for any species.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9GYu8uxQEF0UIYWqijFPnBR4s8OUEfNHD9yFuIdm3gK7iJlDbbhKkkc5aA0CHISNJx-ZlR4LlNq96YCt_Jo9JMtlBKW7R6XlTklAGQhW1zkbM-yXZ_q_AbY0Ub3R5w58yZ5ZlFaeW7-sau0EKmDMtLrHbJUJzyhPjGl7mNXs8sFt2NJeZbO_h1iGM_2v/s3024/IMG_1819.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sinningia leucotricha" border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9GYu8uxQEF0UIYWqijFPnBR4s8OUEfNHD9yFuIdm3gK7iJlDbbhKkkc5aA0CHISNJx-ZlR4LlNq96YCt_Jo9JMtlBKW7R6XlTklAGQhW1zkbM-yXZ_q_AbY0Ub3R5w58yZ5ZlFaeW7-sau0EKmDMtLrHbJUJzyhPjGl7mNXs8sFt2NJeZbO_h1iGM_2v/w320-h320/IMG_1819.jpg" title="Sinningia leucotricha" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>Sinningia
leuchotricha, one of the most popular sinningia, is a good example of <span class="BxUVEf ILfuVd" lang="en"><span class="hgKElc">determinate</span></span> growth. The stem grows up, has leaves and flowers at the
top, and more or less that is the end of the story. The leaves collect
light energy and feed that tuber all summer, then dry up and fall off at
the end of summer. Sinningia with this habit generally don't root
well, if at all, from cuttings, and will similarly not produce a tuber
if they do. I will concede there are occasional exceptions, where if
you get just enough tuber chunk with the stem, the tuber chunk may form
roots and successfully likewise a new tuber. This is pretty hard to
pull off though. </p><p>Well...fine then how does one propagate
Sinningia leucotricha and its kin? From seed of course! Its pretty
easy to pollinate them, and sown relatively fresh, the seed often has
amazingly high germination rates. I like to use those clamshell
containers that salad greens come in. Partially fill with your soil mix
of choice, sprinkle the seed on top, mist to settle the seed down.
Close lid and keep warm. Germination usually takes a couple weeks. </p><p>Now I said "roughly two groups". There's a third flavor, and then still legend tells of a forth propagation option.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgep044hch-766weU-gBmFv6PN2GPpyTSxqMDLbbKfr2gOdYQjQWUn5D5-_eaqmPNzlIz7tfGf1VVZHvGU2RhDpn1PPcm-Jx35KaCMuX7SQbXP9yKBI2Z8Fbvc3dmLIZPsubL9BaPcKKUEaGWec1QtvjQm8CAPNHGe0OvMYPOh9CEa8L8FiUtLDlvpcdbm9/s1440/sinningia%20bullata.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sinningia bullata" border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgep044hch-766weU-gBmFv6PN2GPpyTSxqMDLbbKfr2gOdYQjQWUn5D5-_eaqmPNzlIz7tfGf1VVZHvGU2RhDpn1PPcm-Jx35KaCMuX7SQbXP9yKBI2Z8Fbvc3dmLIZPsubL9BaPcKKUEaGWec1QtvjQm8CAPNHGe0OvMYPOh9CEa8L8FiUtLDlvpcdbm9/w320-h320/sinningia%20bullata.jpg" title="Sinningia bullata" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>The third flavor of Sinningia is those that naturally form <i>satellite tubers</i>.
Most of these are also indeterminate or semi-indeterminate in habit. A
satellite tuber is an extra tuber that forms on its own along the stem
somewhere, or on a stolon. Species that can do this include Sinningia
bullata and eumorpha. In these, you can keep the extra tubers together,
or separate them out as individuals to share when they get some mass to
them. Despite the formation of satellite tubers, I haven't seen
bullata successfully root from cuttings without having an already
existing tuber, however, and so far they only produce satellite tubers on young plants. Perhaps more testing needs to be done.</p><p>The final option for propagating sinningia, after 1) seed, 2) cuttings, 3) satellite tubers, is <b>*drumroll please* </b>4)
cutting tubers. In theory you cut top to bottom splitting the growing
point in half or thirds, like one might split other kinds of tubers. I
have not tried this, so I cannot advocate for any level of efficacy. I
find the idea horrifying, honestly, since it so much easier to produce a
large number of new, happy baby tubers by seed, and if you cut a tuber,
you now have some weird looking tubers. So that means if you try it,
you're on your own. But if you have tried it, please do comment below
and tell us how it went!</p><p>PS: looking for where to get some sinningia plants to get you started? Browse the available plants at <a href="https://juliaredman.com/orchids-and-rare-plants/sinningia/" target="_blank">juliaredman.com</a>!! :D </p>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-68028828655694658142023-09-13T12:31:00.001-04:002023-09-13T12:31:21.815-04:00Confessions of a Collector<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj05xpmUba-5Oogh-zJk8bhXaCHX-0v12ubAVWgjLADrIPKF8TpA_tfJMPSH5bGNrJxlAFRR15QhhAqHyA1PNT3u9rqtXv-_D_PyxMF3ZkOMqH2K-2QIvylCNFjpq-UhqZHDiW_5NZ4fApeAZXJsAD62aE7Opa1A9zgXe8qN7YrTCuk-azFJYT0eUsay58z/s4032/Sinningia%20iriae%20foliage.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj05xpmUba-5Oogh-zJk8bhXaCHX-0v12ubAVWgjLADrIPKF8TpA_tfJMPSH5bGNrJxlAFRR15QhhAqHyA1PNT3u9rqtXv-_D_PyxMF3ZkOMqH2K-2QIvylCNFjpq-UhqZHDiW_5NZ4fApeAZXJsAD62aE7Opa1A9zgXe8qN7YrTCuk-azFJYT0eUsay58z/s320/Sinningia%20iriae%20foliage.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br />
<br /><p></p><p>It is often joked that collecting and doing are two separate hobbies. For example, collecting the yarn or collecting the books and immersing yourself in the use of those things are separate activities. I think there are a few stories there. The collecting activity, well its a hit of endorphins in its way, isn't it? The hunt, the discovery, all the possibilities and dreams that come with finding your next beautiful gem. Its retail therapy but with extra benefits - that thing can have a life of its own, and you can be a part of that. <br /><p></p><p>Then, in the having, as you review those things in your collection you get to relive that dazzling array. You also take a walk down memory lane in other ways, such as who it reminds you of and why, what you learned along the way, how you've changed, extraneous loosely associated memories of who you once were. I currently am rearranging a lot of my supplies - as well as reorganizing and repotting plants - and in doing so I get to re-appreciate the uniqueness of each thing, and the ideas that I had when I met them.</p><p>But this can also be a trap. When does it tip between a reasonable collection toward supporting a series of goals and ideas to random crap you picked up because you needed a hit? Do you keep it because you legitimately intend to make those things happen, or do you keep it because you feel obligated to what could have been?</p><p>You may find that you live in a balance between the ecstatic joy of big ideas, the quiet pleasures of the doing, but dragged down by the morose realization that this collection represents things that could have been: the person you wanted to be, but haven't had the time. How do you crawl out of that? </p><p>We are aware on some level that this is a fact of life. You make choices, you course correct over time, you curate, but ultimately you compromise. You trade doing what gives you joy for doing what pays the mortgage. But you DO NOT TALK ABOUT IT. So why am I talking about it? Because I felt like I needed to. Not doing so leaves you feeling isolated and like a failure. Reaching out to others is a way to create connection, and that connection is how we survive. Even for a barely masking mess like me. Pretend or 'toxic positivity' is just fake. Lets not hide.</p><p>So what can we do? Well, I mentioned curation in passing. That is always part of the equation. I don't think its the full story, but its part of the story I can control, and you can too. Let go of the things you struggle with, are sickly, or take up valuable real estate and don't give you that spark of joy. If you don't feel inclined to admire its leaves every time you water, or inspect it closely for new roots and buds, pass it on to someone else. If its sickly, or has recurring some-problem-or-other and you're afraid its a Leafy Typhoid Mary, the trash bin is recommended - it'll remove the anxiety, not to mention recurring maintenance tasks you really don't want to do. Pro tip: *do not keep the tag*.</p><p>What is the step after that? I don't know, I don't have all the answers. I suppose I just wanted you to know that if you're struggling with the balance of letting go and living life, this collector says you are not alone. We can do this together, if that would help. Share your comments and experiences, lets talk ourselves through this.<br /></p><p>[Photo of <a href="https://juliaredman.com/sinningia-iriae-sapphirechild-orchids/" target="_blank">Sinningia iriae</a> foliage for "tax."]<br /></p>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-32120381667682142282022-03-06T21:21:00.001-05:002022-03-06T21:21:25.124-05:00Horticultural Practice: Growing Your Skills<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhV9DuY6y8xjt0m_BsFvVacsj1pMAv4ay_HobuHIj9Yb1lyDMmiLLWE7YBXK27ZhD-BR_lqld-XdoR6WOz5sw0ePkNDPvjJIeObGe9tjOjrBL1aj5HswU9ZhRvySrYZrP5ZSp55wWDQtGMs40PtDwW3qklvcqzlvmUJ1l1GnsuK4NWkX04K6EMj5OtOVw=s3755" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="A shelf of books about orchids with one open in front, showing text and a distribution map." border="0" data-original-height="2816" data-original-width="3755" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhV9DuY6y8xjt0m_BsFvVacsj1pMAv4ay_HobuHIj9Yb1lyDMmiLLWE7YBXK27ZhD-BR_lqld-XdoR6WOz5sw0ePkNDPvjJIeObGe9tjOjrBL1aj5HswU9ZhRvySrYZrP5ZSp55wWDQtGMs40PtDwW3qklvcqzlvmUJ1l1GnsuK4NWkX04K6EMj5OtOVw=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div> <p></p><p>What does your horticultural practice look like? <br /><br />‘Horticultural practice’ is concept I’m suggesting to describe a mindset of being invested and committed to your plant hobby. How it looks will be unique to each of you, but will have one common factor: a pattern of increasing success through discovery. It is a mindset you can use to level up your game, no matter what your current level is.<br /><br />I’m borrowing this concept from the term ‘art practice.’ Artists often talk about their art practice. This is all the things one does to stay fresh and active in their field, similar to a medical practice. It isn't as simple as cranking out the next painting. Instead, it is the path of exploration, discovery, learning new techniques, personal challenges, and overall continuing education that enables supporting and improving the production of new art, in the case of an artist. Basically it’s all about going beyond just the production aspect. You can imagine how with growing plants, you can have a similar concept, though it isn’t often named as such.<br /><br />So how can we think about horticultural practice? What might that include?<br /><br />Obviously it can be the every day work of caring for your plants. It also includes reading about various plants or plant-related topics, joining various plant groups with online chat or in person lectures, as well as trying things out for yourself. To get the most of the effort invested, though, make sure to practice with purpose. <br /><br />A great purpose to start with is investigating problems that arise - really pursue it to get to the bottom of it. We have an instinct to look for an easy answer, or try things “just in case”, but that doesn’t really teach you to see it before it happens next time, and worse, may involve spraying chemicals that aren’t going to do any good. Push beyond to figure out exactly what is happening and why it might have happened. Use google image and website searches, and be picky about your references. Maybe hit up the library! This will lead to a more informed choice for solving the problem, but may also lead you to general improvements in how you care for your plants on a daily basis, so preventing this from arising again. <br /><br />Side note, the above is the path that led me to switch to using reverse osmosis water only. If you’re interested, I can expand on that another time; leave me a comment below.<br /><br />Or perhaps you like succulents, and you’d like to know how to grow better looking plants, consistently. How might you do that? You can certainly start with talking to other people who keep succulents, but that only gets you as far as the knowledge they’ve gained and whatever assumptions they’ve made about the question you’re asking. So as a next step, you might research individual plants. Where are they from? What is the climate like there at different times of the year? Make it your personal challenge to find someone on instagram that posts photos of those kinds of plants in their native habitat. Can you tell if they’re in shade? Always on a slope? What other kinds of things grow nearby? Maybe visit or look at photos from botanical gardens. How do they situate the plants?<br /><br />For myself, I find there is nothing that changes my perceptions about plants more than seeing photos of them in the wild. I’ll never be able to travel to find all the things in their native habitat, but if you see and hear enough talk about those places, you gain an appreciation of what its like. This will change the way you manage your plants. As a bonus, its like arm-chair travel!<br /><br />Yes, all that is lovely but why bother with all that when you can just get someone to tell you what to do?<br /><br />Well, actually, that is part of it. That is often really useful, a great starting point. Instead what I’m saying is more on the lines of ‘always dig deeper.’ There are a number of reasons for this. One, for example: you post a photo on facebook and ask what is wrong. Folks will make assumptions about your growing space, habits, water quality, and overall what is happening in your windows. They also have to operate under the limitations of their own experience or reading, and so may miss things, all good intentions aside. So you might get some good answers, you might get some incomplete, and in both cases, you may still not know *why*. A combination of the effort to get into the details, making notes for yourself, and that feeling of “this is it!” is what usually makes something truly stick in your mind. Plus, it is just fun. So, yes, chatting with plant friends is a starting point, but there is so much more you can discover.<br /><br />At the end of the day, if the goal of the hobby is to get stress relief, gain enjoyment, gain a sense of accomplishment…its hard to get that by chance. Most people get that sense of fulfillment when they get to the other side of ‘conquering a mountain’, if you follow the analogy. Meaning, the journey of discovery, solving a mystery, the expansive feeling of sheer wonder and awe - that is where you will find joy. So get out there and explore! <br /><br />Enjoy your personal journey!</p>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-90206211495450025132021-05-04T14:26:00.006-04:002021-05-04T14:29:22.428-04:00Dormancy Cycles in Sinningia<p><i>Sinningia leucotricha</i> is a species that has a normal, leafless dormancy phase. They can be grown without this, particularly when young, but it is normal for them, and I think can result in better blooming cycles. However, if you are not used to keeping houseplants that are strongly seasonal in their growth, or even plants that produce a minimum of new foliage each year, this might be alarming to you. So let's discuss. </p>
<p> The first thing I need you to do is not panic. :)</p>
<p>So what does it look like? First, the foliage starts looking tired. It can even start looking like there is a nitrogen deficiency, like these plants here.<br /></p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E70mfMhdcTI/YJFWXqyGJMI/AAAAAAAAD_k/8776NvZ2t9gwdmuVpALnCYiP-i2El9DuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/SadSeedlings.jpg" style="clear: left; display: block; float: left; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="Sinningia leucotricha mature, aging foliage; semi dormant" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E70mfMhdcTI/YJFWXqyGJMI/AAAAAAAAD_k/8776NvZ2t9gwdmuVpALnCYiP-i2El9DuQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h400/SadSeedlings.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Sinningia leucotricha seedlings with mature, aging foliage; semi dormant</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p>How do you differentiate between nitrogen deficiency and dormancy? Well, I don't have a perfect answer for this, but largely I would consider "stage" or "season". In older plants that have been trained to seasonal growth through warm, damp summers and cool, dry winters, obviously they start to visibly shut down their foliage in the fall. But if you are an apartment dweller, and the plant gets only small seasonal changes, it is going to decide on its own when its time to take a nap. Here, you need to consider how long has the foliage been on the plant. Has the foliage been in place a while, and suddenly started looking trashy? If so, dormancy is likely. This may eventually align with the seasons, particularly on a windowsill, since the seasonal changes in light intensity and window draftiness will give the plant some signals.<br /></p>
<p>As a side comment, I don't find the species to be a particularly heavy feeder, so by that token, nitrogen deficiency is automatically unlikely. Of course, it is also never quite impossible. Just make sure you feed it "sometimes."</p>
<p>If you see your plant doing this, perhaps slack off on the watering a little, letting it dry out more or for a little longer between watering, but wouldn't withhold completely. </p>
<p>Eventually, the plant may just get over itself and pop out some new growth, like the wee leaves you see starting here:</p>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-igW6CPLeqzc/YJFWXw8CqJI/AAAAAAAAD_o/IcHnQ2oCkREUjbsecMNBNceDM-By7KWMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/newGrowth.jpg" style="clear: left; display: block; float: left; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-igW6CPLeqzc/YJFWXw8CqJI/AAAAAAAAD_o/IcHnQ2oCkREUjbsecMNBNceDM-By7KWMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/newGrowth.jpg" width="400" /></a>
</td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Sinningia leucotricha seedling with new apical growth</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p>In this case, just continue on with normal care like nothing happened.</p>
<p>But the plant may fully shut down the foliage like you see here:</p>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qislEcWQIwE/YJFWXX0f26I/AAAAAAAAD_c/n1BTpzYV0o4m0OKNueLfRTMO5WenE6QYACLcBGAsYHQ/s1000/dormant.jpg" style="clear: left; display: block; float: left; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1000" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qislEcWQIwE/YJFWXX0f26I/AAAAAAAAD_c/n1BTpzYV0o4m0OKNueLfRTMO5WenE6QYACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/dormant.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Leafless-dormant Sinningia leucotricha seedlings</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p>It may even be crunchy-dry:</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8GmFwG-paU4/YJFWXjoqjvI/AAAAAAAAD_g/32UXM7OPyjscPXgdwe3WmiQrT_TAiBPkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s800/cruncydeadleaves.jpg" style="clear: left; display: block; float: left; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8GmFwG-paU4/YJFWXjoqjvI/AAAAAAAAD_g/32UXM7OPyjscPXgdwe3WmiQrT_TAiBPkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/cruncydeadleaves.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Crunchy Sinningia leucotricha foliage</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p>I repeat: please do not panic.</p>
<p>At this point, we will similate a "dry winter". Ideally this means cooler temperatures - I usually keep plants around 55F in an unheated basement, but work with what you have. I've also just set plants aside on a cool tile floor away from the heat. You'll also dramatically reduce water at this stage. You can still water *a little*, on occasion, but bias toward bottom watering to avoid getting the crown of the tuber wet. Be patient. Accept that the plant needs a nap. As long as that tuber looks plump and undamaged, all is fine.</p>
<p>If the foliage seems to come off easily, take it off. Don't force it though, you don't want to chance damaging the crown by ripping the little stem off.</p>
<p>Remember to check on it periodically, see how it looks, see if there is any change. What you are watching for is this:</p>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EIsMbUZarRU/YJGOl8E-vQI/AAAAAAAAD_4/tIGYFCLNKrkNE4N1U6NxfGl3WSWESf0RwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1000/newGrowth2.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0; text-align: center; clear: left; float: left;"><img alt="" border="0" width="400" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1000" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EIsMbUZarRU/YJGOl8E-vQI/AAAAAAAAD_4/tIGYFCLNKrkNE4N1U6NxfGl3WSWESf0RwCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/newGrowth2.jpg"/></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Fuzzy new Sinningia leucotricha growth!</i></td></tr>
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<p>Its wakingup! When you see this, you can put it back in high light if you've moved it off elsewhere while dormant, start increasing water, and maybe feed it at this stage. The plant is entering its spring/summer phase.</p>
<p>From here, you know pretty much what to expect. It will grow new foliage, sometimes one stalk, sometimes a few. It may flower soon, when the foliage is partially grown but not mature. During and after flowering the foliage will continue to expand until it reaches its full size for the season, at which point it will be a medium silver-green color. Then it turns to bulking up its tuber. The foliage may not change much, or at all from here to the end of the growing season, but the plant is busy doing important work below the soil surface to prepare for next winter.</p>
<p>You will likely find that each year, the foliage will increase in size or leaf count as the tuber increases in size. Enjoy watching the show each spring, knowing you've done a good job over the past year to help it prepare for the event.</p>
<p>For more photos and chit chat about this species in various stages of development, including a look at my oldest plant entering dormancy last fall and the beginnings of its show this spring, check out the instagram hashtag <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/pgcsinningialeucotricha/" target="_blank">#pgcsinningialeucotricha</a>.</p>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-29085012042660448282018-02-23T22:09:00.001-05:002020-09-18T13:49:30.519-04:00Walking IrisHiya! After some hiatus, I've been posting plants over on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/julia.redman/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>. Faster, less construction involved and I can still share some things with you. Follow me there if you'd like to see some plants, nature, fiber art, and pets.<br />
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Today's in bloom is a walking iris, <span id="react-root">Neomarica species, no ID.</span><br />
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<span id="react-root">You can find that post <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bfjdw73Dc4l/" target="_blank">here</a>. Blogger seems to have trouble slurping photos from instagram for preview.<br /></span>
<script async="" defer="" src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-19931823630997557862013-08-02T10:01:00.000-04:002013-08-02T10:01:04.134-04:00Mystery Mushroom<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QxUmVsc3uGE/Ufuz-69LGVI/AAAAAAAABjg/XzcXvLXpMy8/s1600/DSCN5893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QxUmVsc3uGE/Ufuz-69LGVI/AAAAAAAABjg/XzcXvLXpMy8/s320/DSCN5893.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Leucocoprinus birnbaumii</i> (?)</td></tr>
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You may have had this experience. You have a plant, large or small, summer comes, its warm, the thing is being watered well, and suddenly there are neon yellow mushrooms cohabitating with your plant.<br />
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"What do I do?!?" you think, and "where did I go wrong?" Nothing* and nowhere.<br />
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If you have a small child or dog with compulsive hand to mouth syndrome (eats whatever it touches), you might remove the mushrooms, the species is not edible. But otherwise, they harm no one, certainly not your plant. Though some fungi are parasitic or pathogenic, in general fungi of the mushroom type are nothing more than an indication of the presence of decaying organic matter. In this case, potting soil. Many fungi are even beneficial. To learn more about that, read up on mycorrhizae. <br />
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This, however, is just a mushroom. I believe the species is<i> Leucocoprinus birnbaumii. </i>They get into the soil from other plants, spores in greenhouses and garden centers, and in potting soil (or potting soil components if you mix your own like I do) that is not fully sterilized. You can remove the mushrooms, but these are only fruiting bodies, the bulk of the organism is living quietly beneath the surface in a vast network of fine mycelia. I suggest you just enjoy their obnoxiously yellow presence for the few days they are present.<br />
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If anyone is interested, according to <u>The Rainbow Beneath My Feet</u> by Arleen and Alan Bessette, the species produces beige to yellowish brown dye depending on mordant. Bummer, I really hoped it would be sunshine yellow.Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-5399285123131762332013-07-28T23:30:00.000-04:002013-07-28T23:30:33.290-04:00Eastern Dobsonfly, Corydalus cornutus<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g61boJHQyJQ/UfXZSnL-wQI/AAAAAAAABjQ/ykl0FvanTig/s1600/DSCN6049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g61boJHQyJQ/UfXZSnL-wQI/AAAAAAAABjQ/ykl0FvanTig/s320/DSCN6049.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eastern Dobsonfly, <i>Corydalus cornutus</i></td></tr>
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These lovely critters are Eastern Dobsonfles, <i>Corydalus cornutus</i>, one female (horizontal bug in photo; short mandibles) and one male (diagonal; long mandibles). These insects are 4-5 inches in length, impressive in appearance, but harmless.<br />
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This year I have sighted them more often than in previous years, and I saw a similar comment on <a href="http://www.whatsthatbug.com/" target="_blank">What's that bug? </a>leading me to believe their population has been improving. In the larval stage, they are aquatic as well as predatory (and, if possible, more creepy looking), and likely owe any resurgence to the same source as the increasing numbers of frogs, eagles, etc. Though I'm sure the populations of none of these are what they once were, I think there are definite improvements. I'd like to think people are starting to take responsibility for water quality and habitat preservation, but it may be nothing more than the days of willy-nilly spraying of DDT is now far enough behind, allowing some ecological recovery. A <a href="http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/misc/eastern_dobsonfly.htm" target="_blank">great review article about dobsonflies on the Univeristy of Florida</a> website mentions that dobsonflies have been suggested as a good indicator for environmental monitoring studies.<br />
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The article mentions above also explains many other interesting facts about the species. They spend 1-3 years as larva, living in clean water, under rocks and such, feeding on other insects. They then pupate about 3 weeks to reach their adult stage, shown above. As adults, they live 3-8 days to mate and finish out their life cycle. Seeing one, therefore is a rare treat, like seeing a luna moth. I feel exceptionally lucky to have seen this pair together.Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-6151434620087155742013-07-26T17:01:00.000-04:002013-07-26T17:01:17.633-04:00Eggs, fresh off the lawnContinuing with the eat local theme, thought I'd share how the first eggs from our spring chickens were enjoyed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JcuqnI0Of6M/UfLhmSFd1EI/AAAAAAAABi4/EZionULgYJI/s1600/DSCN6022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JcuqnI0Of6M/UfLhmSFd1EI/AAAAAAAABi4/EZionULgYJI/s320/DSCN6022.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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This is the contents of only 6 eggs from our young hens. Count the yolks. I actually cracked 6 eggs and three of them were twins! And none of these was a normal sized egg - young hens lay small eggs when they first start out. Only fitting, they're not yet full size hens. But to see so many twins?!<br />
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These eggs were scrambled, seasoned with cracked black pepper, salt, garlic, tarragon, and smoked spanish paprika. I believe there may also have been some cheese involved, but I don't remember what cheese. Likely something aged and slightly ripe. They were then fried up in a generous amount of butter on an iron skillet, and served with carrots and kale from the garden, as well as a generous slab of heirloom tomato from the local market, all piled on a gluten free rice tortilla.<br />
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mmmm.... After taking the picture I decided it needed a little dijon mustard too. I like the Annie's dijon - a little saucy, but not overly horseradish-y flavored.Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-39300647961920308112013-07-07T10:20:00.003-04:002013-07-07T10:21:48.797-04:00Eat Local ChallengeNo posts for months and two in one day? Yeah, I know, sorry about that.<br />
This one has a community type motive. My friend JoannaSpring over at <a href="http://knitspinfarm.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Knit Spin Farm</a> is having her second-annual eat local "Eat-Along". In this, viewers are challenged to eat something they grew or which was sourced from local farms. Eating local is supporting your local farmer, a chance to know the source of your food and support small business, a chance to safeguard the foodshed and local knowledge about producing it. It is many good things.<br />
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I'd suggest try to make at least some of every meal local foods. You might find it is great fun to seek them out. Find the local farmer's markets, farms which sell direct, pick-your-owns, co-ops and boutiques that sell local products. Its not just fruits and veggies, either. There are farms local to me which sell also fantastic honey, eggs from pasture-kept hens (and ducks! OMG, duck eggs...), cow & goat & sheep dairy, meats of all sorts, herbs and flowers.<br />
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For my part, my half-assed garden will provide the bulk of the goods (by volume). Fortunately for me, kale is easy to grow, and I always sow carrots even if I don't tend them. I love root crops, harvesting them is like a treasure hunt.<br />
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This is a very easy eat-local / eat-from-the-garden. We have here purple carrots in fresh kale from the garden, with some cheese and leftover sausage (from the grocery). The dressing contains also fresh thyme and basil from the garden, with balsamic and <a href="http://www.coconutsecret.com/vinegar2.html" target="_blank">coconut vinegar</a>, aleppo pepper, black pepper, salt, garlic, ginger, olive oil. Ta-da!<br />
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PS: I highly recommend using raw kale in place of lettuce for all kinds of purposes. It never gets gross and soggy, and is very filling.Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-63776598795842206522013-07-07T09:47:00.001-04:002013-07-07T17:12:03.147-04:00Praying Mantis babies!This post is overdue, I took the photos at the end of May. They still may be educational.<br />
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Look closely! What you are seeing is newly hatched praying mantises on strawberry plants. They were about a centimeter long. There are two in the one below, but the second is blurry. Sorry about that.<br />
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I was able to tell they were newly hatched because there were so many among the plants. Within a day or two after hatching they begin to disperse throughout the area in search of food. They grow rapidly and reach adult size by the end of summer. In this area, around September or so they lay their eggs, which are housed in a foamy-looking papery case, usually attached to a twig. See below.<br />
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Be on the lookout for these in your garden while pruning. If you find one, leave it in place and prune that section the following summer. You want these guys in your garden. Not only do they look awesome, but they are predatory insects, making meals of such undesirable things as grasshoppers and stink bugs when larger, as youngsters of course they must select bugs more appropriate to their size.<br />
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Predatory insects you should be kind to:<br />
<ul>
<li>Lady Bugs and several other tiny round beetle like critters that eat aphids, mealybugs, etc. Familiarize yourself especially with what <i>young</i> ladybugs look like - <a href="http://www.butterflyfunfacts.com/ladybug-lifecycle.php" target="_blank">nymphs are very different</a>.</li>
<li>Praying mantis</li>
<li>Assassin Bugs or Cog Bugs - do look this one up, they are very creepy looking</li>
<li>Centipedes and Millipedes - I generally want to mash centipedes, but I have personally witnessed them at the hunt, so I tolerate them.</li>
<li>Spiders of all kinds! Seriously, spiders are awesome, and contrary to paranoid beliefs of many they are not out to get you. Do, however, feel free to mash black widow and brown recluse spiders, but familiarize yourself with how they look to prevent unnecessary deaths.</li>
</ul>
There are many others, of course, and likely you are aware of some or all of these. But it bears repeating - these will be of assistance to you. Encouraging them takes time, and pesticides can kill your friends as well as undesirables. Also meadow and other 'wild' garden spaces provide the territory for them to establish and thrive. A "well tended" lawn is essentially a desert.Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-78686214638980930862012-12-29T15:35:00.000-05:002013-07-07T09:48:08.698-04:00A visitor<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iK5_XpYTO_I/UN9SXeTeOKI/AAAAAAAABfk/eAD-Bdbqiyg/s1600/DSCN4627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iK5_XpYTO_I/UN9SXeTeOKI/AAAAAAAABfk/eAD-Bdbqiyg/s320/DSCN4627.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unidentified Crab Spider</td></tr>
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This little lady was found laying in wait on some mounted plants. Due to her color, she is nearly invisible when she is curled up on the back of a piece of cork. On the front, she is more visible. I was unable to figure out what species she is, but due to body type and her habit of sitting down and folding her legs up so that she looks like a wee spot of mud on the cork tells me she is a crab spider. These are hunting spiders, like jumpers, and don't weave webs. Crab spiders are also often called flower spiders, as many species are colored to blend in well on flowers, and prefer to hide among petals to wait for a chance to catch bugs.<br />
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To see more cool bugs and learn about them, I recommend visiting <a href="http://www.whatsthatbug.com/" target="_blank">What's That Bug?</a><br />
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I hope she eats stink bugs.Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-51949394486157093362012-12-26T14:13:00.002-05:002012-12-26T14:14:39.982-05:00Happy Holidays<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T_FNepScV_8/UNtJYZZ3kvI/AAAAAAAABfU/Pq3yf4LkJkQ/s1600/DSCN4779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T_FNepScV_8/UNtJYZZ3kvI/AAAAAAAABfU/Pq3yf4LkJkQ/s400/DSCN4779.JPG" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aloe barbadensis (vera)</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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We like an alternative Christmas tree. Every year, one or two unlucky plants get pulled for ornament duty. :)<br />
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I believe this to be Aloe barbadensis, or some near similar hybrid. It came to me without a tag. Its a large, beastly plant, and I have divided out many pups from it over the years in a vain attempt to manage its size. The normal blooming season for these would be around early Spring, attracting hummingbirds if it was outside. However, frequently this guy blooms for me in the late fall, soon after it comes inside. I assume the sudden change from exposure to temperatures of 45 or 50F (7-10C) overnight to constant 68 (20C) makes it think spring has come early. That scape is nearly 5 feet high (150cm), but that includes the height of the pot. Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-29407547001183438322012-12-12T10:36:00.000-05:002012-12-12T10:38:04.711-05:00Paph concolor v chlorophyllum<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I75DHKAGXus/UMigamLRJmI/AAAAAAAABe0/Ak2DKucMWXw/s1600/Paph.concolor_v.chlrophyllum.Buttercup.light.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I75DHKAGXus/UMigamLRJmI/AAAAAAAABe0/Ak2DKucMWXw/s320/Paph.concolor_v.chlrophyllum.Buttercup.light.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paph. concolor v. chlorophyllum 'Buttercup'</td></tr>
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Responding to an OGD post regarding a request for Paph concolor photos, I dug up what I had to share. This is a photo of a plant formerly in my collection.<br />
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Yes, sadly, formerly. I lost it when I ended up with a resistant, rampant mealybug infestation in a stand of paphs. I finally destroyed them rather than continuing to spray, as the best I was able to do was keep it in check. It was a liability. So after a couple years of fighting it and keeping the plants isolated, I decided that rather than risk sharing such pests with anyone who got plants from me, I should put everyone who was infected into a black plastic bag. It still makes me ill to think about it. I had several very nice things in there.<br />
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This, kids, is why some people quarantine newcomers. I didn't, and I paid for it.<br />
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But back to the plant. Paph concolor is a lovely species, with butter yellow flowers and lovely, thick, crystalline tessellated foliage. It and things like it really love calcium, and I always thought my success with them was a result of having hard water. (See? There is an up-side to hard water.)<br />
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The irony of this situation is that this flower smells like pesticide. Not everyone can pick it up, its faint, and also, easy to mistake for pesticide residue. However, this plant bloomed *before* the major infestation began, and so nothing else was stinky at the time.<br />
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I maintain that a lot of plants have some fragrance and we never hear about it. People are convinced "Paphiopedilums have no fragrance", so they never check. But I have come across several that are. So don't feel silly, sniff every flower to see if you can detect something that someone else missed.Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-8242449206144836022012-11-19T14:53:00.003-05:002012-11-19T14:55:03.108-05:00In Bloom: Pumpkin ColorsThree lovely orange flowers, for your enjoyment.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M6qRcaKUrAE/UKqJjw7X4cI/AAAAAAAABeE/Ns2l1PTdgE4/s1600/Clivia.cyrtanthiflora.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M6qRcaKUrAE/UKqJjw7X4cI/AAAAAAAABeE/Ns2l1PTdgE4/s320/Clivia.cyrtanthiflora.jpg" title="Clivia cyrtanthiflora" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clivia cyrtanthiflora</td></tr>
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Clivia cyrtanthiflora, a natural hybrid between miniata and nobilis. I don't know if this particular plant is a natural hybrid or a man-made "remake," but the effect is largely the same. A large, beastly plant, it already has 3 pups, one of which bloomed for the first time this year. Division of this plant would likely require a hacksaw, the root mas is so solid. Clivias tend to tell you they want a bigger pot by pushing themselves up out of their current pot an inch or so.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p-ZAJniq-fs/UKqJk1ZgJlI/AAAAAAAABeM/Vmr4wlOfug8/s1600/Lc.JungleEyes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p-ZAJniq-fs/UKqJk1ZgJlI/AAAAAAAABeM/Vmr4wlOfug8/s320/Lc.JungleEyes.jpg" title="Lc. Jungle Eyes" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lc. Jungle Eyes</td></tr>
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Lc Jungle Eyes (Jungle Elf x aclandiae) is a compact cattleya bearing
thick, spotted flowers heavily influenced by aclandiae, which makes up
75% of it's ancestry (example flower photo shows C. aclandiae). The
rest of Jungle Eye's heritage comes from a miniature yellow laelia
species, esalqueana. Both species are small, and Jungle Eyes matures at about 6 inches tall. This is the first of a batch of seedlings to bloom. Younger plants of the same cross are available <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/59806734/lc-jungle-eyes-orchid-seedling-spots" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dnckTzP5cmI/UKqJlrYLgcI/AAAAAAAABeU/lmbMqbqdm3E/s1600/Sophronitis.cernua.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dnckTzP5cmI/UKqJlrYLgcI/AAAAAAAABeU/lmbMqbqdm3E/s320/Sophronitis.cernua.jpg" title="Sophronitis cernua" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">S. cernua</td></tr>
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Sophronitis cernua is an awesome little miniature plant, popping buds out of a maturing growth as it finishes out its growth. Its a creeping plant, easiest to manage on a mount due to its habit of hugging its substrate. They grow perhaps a little brighter than a Phalaenopsis, otherwise similar requirements, but are highly tolerant of lazy watering habits.<br />
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Also, a couple orange bugs - some woolly bears I found hiding under an empty pot outside. They were grouchy about being disturbed, and vacated shortly after this photo was taken. These are ground-dwelling caterpillars that eat grasses and weeds, and hibernate during the winter, then spin their cocoons in the spring. Good luck little fellas.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3s1U1DQmiEY/UKqNcaN0m8I/AAAAAAAABek/4qTCFOTN35s/s1600/DSCN4429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3s1U1DQmiEY/UKqNcaN0m8I/AAAAAAAABek/4qTCFOTN35s/s320/DSCN4429.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-1278861012552165922012-10-31T22:04:00.000-04:002012-10-31T22:04:49.789-04:00A stinky bouquet<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Stapelia gigantea</i>, or Carrion Flower, Starfish Flower, and several others.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t3T1qJmcsJs/UJHNujsKUKI/AAAAAAAABd0/oOWroW9hjPE/s1600/Stapelia.gigantea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t3T1qJmcsJs/UJHNujsKUKI/AAAAAAAABd0/oOWroW9hjPE/s320/Stapelia.gigantea.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The species originates from South Africa, but has been in cultivation for a long time. Ironically, though called Carrion Flower and reported to have a very foul scent, I have never noticed it. I have no explanation for this, really. Perhaps it is only horribly stinky early in the morning when I am not yet alive. That said, it is always popular with the flies, so I might have a different story if I had to be in a small, enclosed space with it.<br />
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I have recently learned that his succulent-type plant is actually a member of the milkweed family. This perhaps gives reason for its vigorous growth, a habit well known among that family. The plant is really easy to grow and flower, though newly rooted cuttings sometimes must establish themselves a year or two before they will bloom.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kKWhPvoqf20/UJHNtSXc4HI/AAAAAAAABdk/4YeZNWJNOBI/s1600/Stapelia.gigantea-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kKWhPvoqf20/UJHNtSXc4HI/AAAAAAAABdk/4YeZNWJNOBI/s320/Stapelia.gigantea-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The plant is well known for the flower size, with a 10-12" wingspan. Here's a wine cork for comparison. The flowers in the photo are very reflexed, having all their sepals folded back, which in this case gives the impression of a smaller flower. So, natural spread is not always 10-12".<br />
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Yes, those are sepals. The petals are the tiny doodads in the center.<br />
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As mentioned, the plant is a weed, and scrambles over the edges of a pot in no time. These flowers were all on one section of stem that was well over the edge of the pot and the basket in which it was sitting. Their combined weight got to be too much. You can see it breaking off below. <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kV60_hgr2WM/UJHNtxjAUnI/AAAAAAAABds/7OADszYfebA/s1600/Stapelia.gigantea-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kV60_hgr2WM/UJHNtxjAUnI/AAAAAAAABds/7OADszYfebA/s320/Stapelia.gigantea-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
But, no worries. These are really easy to root. It actually already has little pimply 'nubs' where the roots are prepared to pop out. After the flowers are gone, I'll break it off, give that piece a few days to heal the wound, then set it on something fluffy, fertile, and relatively well drained. It'll be a brand new bushy succulent in no time. <br />
<br />Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-45882989552088700112012-08-28T18:53:00.001-04:002012-08-28T18:53:43.337-04:00Eager Clivia Seed<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">
Today I learned that Clivia seeds will germinate when they are ready, even if the fruit hasn't been picked yet. I saw that little root poking out of a fruit I had procrastinated picking. Here it is with the fruit cracked open.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kWUQVrcDUQY/UD1LgvphpDI/AAAAAAAABcg/rk-kQOnS5DQ/s1600/DSCN4286.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kWUQVrcDUQY/UD1LgvphpDI/AAAAAAAABcg/rk-kQOnS5DQ/s320/DSCN4286.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-13444539067734578762012-08-17T17:57:00.005-04:002012-08-17T17:57:52.762-04:00A proper web<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mjpE5YiyCcc/UC68ZJWr4gI/AAAAAAAABcE/IkAFQTMDkzE/s1600/DSCN4109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mjpE5YiyCcc/UC68ZJWr4gI/AAAAAAAABcE/IkAFQTMDkzE/s400/DSCN4109.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
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<i>Argiope aurantia</i>, or yellow orb weaver, is possibly my favorite spider. The females are large, dramatically colored, and spin the most impressive webs. When they are young, if you get close to their web they freak out a little, and rock their bodies to make their entire web flap, making themselves more visible in hopes that you won't destroy their careful weaving. Males are much smaller and easily overlooked, but sometimes you'll see
one actually hanging out on the female's web in an unobtrusive spot. I enjoy monitoring their progress throughout the summer, occasionally helping out by tossing them a grasshopper. I count myself lucky that these accomplished pest control agents can be found in my yard every year. Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-89820432695048456492012-08-15T21:41:00.000-04:002012-08-15T21:41:03.015-04:00Promises of Lazy Gardener Tales to come...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4GcLfwkW4hQ/UCxNAFugYMI/AAAAAAAABb0/IUn8LlIQiEM/s1600/DSCN4159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4GcLfwkW4hQ/UCxNAFugYMI/AAAAAAAABb0/IUn8LlIQiEM/s320/DSCN4159.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I plunked a fig into my yard this summer and the little guy is already gifting fruit. It is a lovely little Chicago Hardy which I had in an 8" pot for the previous year.</div>
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Why the "Lazy Gardener" tag? Well...in a fit of genius *cough* I decided to do a hack job of preparing the bed, and made a smallish one very close to the patio, completely ignoring the sheer mass a fig tree can attain. I know this, but I chose the lazy way out. A couple weeks after, while visiting my brother, I had an up close look at his fig tree. I know this tree to have been viciously pruned last fall, yet by the end of June it was already about 8ft tall and perhaps as much in diameter.</div>
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I sense I'll be doing a lot of battle with my "little fig tree" in the coming years.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">On the bright side, I'll have lots of cuttings to root and share, and perhaps this means the Passifloras have finally met their match...</span>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-83495149228008674532012-08-02T22:40:00.000-04:002012-08-02T22:42:26.438-04:00Dischidia ovata seeds<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BTfjUT6V4r4/UBs0j1tshKI/AAAAAAAABbU/jMzzVCCmbWQ/s1600/Dischidia.ovata+seeds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BTfjUT6V4r4/UBs0j1tshKI/AAAAAAAABbU/jMzzVCCmbWQ/s320/Dischidia.ovata+seeds.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Dischidia ovata seeds! Though I have been interested, I have never figured out how to hand pollinate Dischidias. Their floral structure is not obvious, I have never bothered to stick one under a dissecting 'scope, and have yet to find any useful information. But as you can see, some kindly bug must have finally taken pity. I was gifted a wee pod about an inch and a half long and very narrow. It recently ripened and released the prizes.</div>
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Dischidias are a close relative of the Hoya genus, which places them in the milkweed family. You might have suspected this by the appearance of the seed pod. If you've ever grown either genus, you'll also have noted that any cut or damaged plant parts exude a white, sticky sap, also reminiscent of milkweed.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KrD20WXO_nE/UBs0kbCviOI/AAAAAAAABbY/mYH3kCv82n4/s1600/Dischidia.ovata.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KrD20WXO_nE/UBs0kbCviOI/AAAAAAAABbY/mYH3kCv82n4/s320/Dischidia.ovata.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I have a few Dischidia species and I find them all to be easy to grow and flower. Dischidia ovata, though, is by far the easiest. With almost no encouragement it will creep, crawl, twine and climb all over the place. It also seems to bloom for much of the year when kept indoors. I have never found this sort of success with Hoyas. Actually, sadly, I have yet to have a long term relationship with any Hoya.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Want some cuttings? Drop me a line via <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/sapphirechild">the shop</a>. I'll probably root some to sell, but they're easy enough to get going, so if you're interested, no sense in waiting on my account. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I have sown my Dischidia seeds in a plastic bag of damp sphagnum. They germinated within a couple days.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5TO6FRwYMD8/UBs0jhgJs3I/AAAAAAAABbQ/gVlKlwpkw_Q/s1600/Dischidia.ovata+seedlings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5TO6FRwYMD8/UBs0jhgJs3I/AAAAAAAABbQ/gVlKlwpkw_Q/s320/Dischidia.ovata+seedlings.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The method is also effective with Anthurium seeds.</span> <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Oh by the way - you can expect Anthurium scandens seedlings to become available soon too... </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iDp2tCPp60I/UBs0jGeWISI/AAAAAAAABbM/FmA3D6Es0iU/s1600/Anthurium.scandens+seedlings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iDp2tCPp60I/UBs0jGeWISI/AAAAAAAABbM/FmA3D6Es0iU/s320/Anthurium.scandens+seedlings.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-73486998078291602392012-07-28T16:47:00.003-04:002012-08-02T22:15:29.959-04:00In Bloom: Summer Miniature<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://ny-image3.etsy.com/001/0/5134297/il_570xN.360625691_22ew.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://ny-image3.etsy.com/001/0/5134297/il_570xN.360625691_22ew.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Dyakia hendersoniana, formerly known as Ascocentrum hendersonianum, is a
very adorable miniature species. These bloom on an inflorescence up to 6
inches high covered with wee, purple-pink flowers with a white lip in
late Spring or early Summer. They can be grown along side Phalaenopsis,
pretty much the same conditions but with maybe a little bit more light. I am keeping mine in slightly stronger light than the phals right now, but they spend the Winter in a slighty shadier spot.
Great plant for those of you looking to branch out, and great plant
for the miniature collectors out there too! </span><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/100204654/dyakia-hendersoniana-blooming-size" style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Now available in the shop!</a><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"> :)</span>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-23626237171465397202012-07-04T21:01:00.002-04:002012-08-02T22:14:51.080-04:00In Bloom: Isn't she lovely?<div style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; text-align: center;">
Cattleya aclandiae</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qHkGiuSM2nw/T_TkJvY2haI/AAAAAAAABbA/OAWgzerOlW4/s1600/Catt.aclandiae.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qHkGiuSM2nw/T_TkJvY2haI/AAAAAAAABbA/OAWgzerOlW4/s400/Catt.aclandiae.jpg" width="400" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p_q7Rk1luao/T_TkJKZokOI/AAAAAAAABa4/a20TBEamhlI/s1600/Catt.aclandiae-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="380" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p_q7Rk1luao/T_TkJKZokOI/AAAAAAAABa4/a20TBEamhlI/s400/Catt.aclandiae-2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I'm quite happy with this. No, it could have a flatter lip, and my camera could have been less recalcitrant about the color of the lip. It is actually a very nice deep red-purple in real life, but that shade is just not in my camera's repertoire. Overall, the color is very dark and rich, which is the form I like most in this species. As a bonus, it is wildly fragrant from morning through early afternoon, with a fragrance resembling a very nice rose, but a good deal more potent. </div>
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I had a few aclandiae, and after being told they like it dry and hot, I proceeded to mount most of the plants I had. They did well during the summer, but of course, during the winter I sometimes ignore stuff, and several croaked. Turns out, if you're lazy with the watering in winter, they're a lot happier in a pot...(see photographic evidence above!)</div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I do very much like these dwarf Brazilian bifoliate cattleyas, and I'm
pleased as punch that I've finally bloomed one of these seedlings. So much so, that I trolled around here singing "Isn't she lovely! Isn't she wonderful?" blah blah blah. Several comments were made in regards to my probable over-consumption of caffeine. This of course prompted me to sing louder and put more effort into singing off-key. This was rewarded with the 'stink eye'. Now I'm extra pleased with myself.</span>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-75450518566783698842012-07-01T20:11:00.000-04:002012-08-02T22:14:10.921-04:00In Bloom: Albizia julibrissin<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XsFEpHk0Z1Q/T_DjM19DEFI/AAAAAAAABas/WSeupoLvwZc/s1600/Albizia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="299" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XsFEpHk0Z1Q/T_DjM19DEFI/AAAAAAAABas/WSeupoLvwZc/s400/Albizia.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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All over Maryland Albizia julibrissin trees have been in bloom for the past few weeks. These are also known as Mimosa or Silk Trees, though the former more properly belongs to a related genus to which the diminutive Mimosa pudica (sensitive plant) belongs. I've you've seen those, you'll recognize the family resemblance. The plant in the photo is a volunteer, which admittedly came up a little close to the house, but they don't get that big and I like them so it stays. I have carefully protected this thing from 'helping hands', sloppy lawnmowing, and grazing horses since it was a wee, weedy sprout. Finally it has bloomed. I am quite pleased with its depth of color.</div>
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This species is found in much of the Eastern and Southern ranges of the US, but it is not native. It is actually introduced and naturalized, and also considered a weedy, invasive pest in certain areas, notably Florida and Tennessee, according to the <a href="http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=ALJU">USDA PLANTS Profile</a>. Such is often the lot of plants in the pea family.</div>
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Yes, this is actually in the pea family. Family resemblance is more obvious in the structure of the foliage and the bean-like seed pods, less so the flowers due to lack of petals. Interestingly, however, if you look closely at that flower you'll notice that each of those pink filaments is tipped with yellow. Those are stamens. </div>
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I understand the species is highly susceptible to Fusarium wilt, and so can be short lived in the Northeast as a result. My mother used to tell me there were many of these trees 30-40 years ago in the DC area with fantastic color. Then they almost all died out, tragically leaving only the ones with pale color. Well, fortunately, they're weedy, and so are making an excellent comeback. They sure seem to be all over the place now.</div>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-37838002239345839202012-06-24T16:50:00.000-04:002012-06-24T16:51:28.431-04:00In Bloom: Moth Diner<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Following much personal change and a good deal of procrastination and total distraction with mad knitting, I've decided its time to start posting to the Plant Geek Chronicles again (and, uh, paying more attention to the plants...yep, had some survival of the fittest experimentation).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I'm starting easy, by showing you some goodies in bloom. First, we've got a lovely variegated Neofinetia falcata, tagged as 'Higashidemiyako'.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NaE2dFGVLGc/T-d4E-hou_I/AAAAAAAABaU/nA-Js8-qyJ8/s1600/Neofinetia.falcata.Higashidemiyako.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NaE2dFGVLGc/T-d4E-hou_I/AAAAAAAABaU/nA-Js8-qyJ8/s320/Neofinetia.falcata.Higashidemiyako.jpg" width="239" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">I'm very pleased with it. It might not be an extremely rare form, but I still think its awesome. Neofinetia falcata is a Japanese species, and all the most interesting plants are still Japanese in origin or recent ancestry. These plants are also easier to grow. I've had trouble with the ones that have been bred in the US for several generations. Likely those are all horribly inbred. But so far I have four that I believe to be of Japanese origin, and not only are they of more interesting varieties, they're so adaptable and easy to grow!</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">They're also sweetly fragrant, somewhat reminiscent of honeysuckle. As the flower form includes a long spur and the plant displays increased fragrance at dusk and dark, I suspct the plant is probably moth pollinated in its natural habitat. I don't know this for sure, if you have any data on this please chime in.</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The other goodie I have to share is a Brassavola acaulis, which I am sure is moth pollinated.</a><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R0ZZIKFjeWY/T-d6DJSSFHI/AAAAAAAABac/j76nCoWl8Ng/s1600/Brassavola.acaulis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R0ZZIKFjeWY/T-d6DJSSFHI/AAAAAAAABac/j76nCoWl8Ng/s320/Brassavola.acaulis.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">This plant is also cool, and surprisingly sturdy. The 'leaves' are long, pendant...well...green sticks in appearance. Almost based on the appearance and the placement in genus Brassavola you'd assume *Super High Light!* But nay. On the advice of the ever knowledgeable <a href="http://www.orchidexchange.com/">Al</a>, I've kept it with the large mounted phalaenopsis plants, so low-medium light (by orchid standards, mind you ::shakes finger::), and decent watering. Though, to be fair, through the winter I tend to not water enough. The phals were a little crabby about that but they're still alive. Some sources suggest 3-4 hrs light for this species, but mine lives in an East window just fine. It is possible it will adapt to either situation. In any case, it bloomed.</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">Here again, like most moth pollinated species, it isn't very impressive in the day. As soon as it gets dark, though, you can smell it from across the room. It has a vaguely citrus-y rose-y scent. Very pleasant.</a><br />Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-32382515119676676782011-09-30T00:25:00.001-04:002011-09-30T00:25:15.367-04:00An introduction to Orchids as Houseplants<a href="http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=21291957"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303230998940916418" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_y8Q8lCmygBw/SZjcfu22msI/AAAAAAAAApQ/SXHrLvp1rIU/s320/Phal.stuartiana.Sogo.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 207px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 320px;" /></a><span style="font-family: arial;">Frequently I hear ‘orchids are just too sensitive’ or ‘I could never…’, but honestly orchids are not always as difficult as people think. With the number of orchid species estimated at as much as 30,000 species (not a typo, see also <a href="http://www.kew.org/science/orchids/research.html">Kew: Science and Horticulture: Orchidaceae</a>) and native species found on every continent and climate except Antarctica, plus countless man-made hybrids, finding something right for your house is just about knowing what to look for in an orchid plant. Keeping it alive is just about being well informed (and occasional watering).</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=22200389"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303233862101390866" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_y8Q8lCmygBw/SZjfGY9gVhI/AAAAAAAAApw/pfiEblngxfA/s320/DSCN3902.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 297px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 320px;" /></a><span style="font-family: arial;">How is an orchid different? While there are many answers to this question, what really matters to the home grower is that many orchids, and certainly most of the common types grown as houseplants, are <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epiphyte">epiphytes</a>. This is a situation where the plants use a tree branch (or occasionally rock crevice) as a condominium. They are not parasitic, just opportunistic. What this means to you as the home grower is that orchid roots are accustomed to an environment where while there might be frequent rain, there is also strong air movement. Many types can even be grown on a wood plaque with no media around the roots (see article <a href="http://sapphirechild.blogspot.com/2008/04/how-to-mount-orchid.html">here</a>). Similarly, if your nicely potted plant has a root sticking out of the pot somewhere you shouldn’t be alarmed – in orchids this is not necessarily cause to repot. Some orchids just don’t really understand the concept of a pot and so throw their roots in every direction.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Good watering methods are key to root health. Watering of some houseplants is accomplished by leaving them to sit in water for hours at a time. This is not recommended with orchids (with a couple exceptions of some Phragmipedium species that live on river side rocks) as it may lead to root rot. The easiest thing to do is water the orchid by running plenty of water through the pot from the top. Once the media is well wetted, let it drain, then return it to the window.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">For best results, orchids are potted in a fluffy or chunky mix that gives a nice balance of holding moisture but allowing air circulation. To maintain root health, repotting your orchids into fresh potting media every one to three years is recommended. Here is a <a href="http://sapphirechild.blogspot.com/2008/06/how-to-repot-paph-orchid.html">repotting article</a>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Ok, so all that is great, but how to pick an orchid??</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_y8Q8lCmygBw/SZjeCQlk9YI/AAAAAAAAApo/WSqHXZ9lbrA/s1600-h/Bulb.caruneulatum2005a.JPG"></a><span style="font-family: arial;">The most important piece of advice is to purchase a plant that is well established. You certainly can have success also with that $5 seedling in a two inch pot, but you will likely find it easier with more immediate gratification to buy a plant that is at least within 1-2 years of blooming for the first time. When buying a plant in person, especially at a place like the grocery store, challenge the plant by gently grabbing the leaves and lifting or moving the plant back and forth to see how well it is rooted into that pot. Good roots mean a healthy plant and more likely success.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=21907110"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303240413023739218" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_y8Q8lCmygBw/SZjlDtDGnVI/AAAAAAAAAqI/sih5CQIroa4/s320/DSCN6530.JPG" style="cursor: hand; float: left; height: 320px; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 282px;" /></a>Second is to look for a plant that matches your light conditions. For up to a few weeks at a time during blooming you can stick an orchid where it won’t get much light (say, the kitchen table) to enjoy it, but the rest of the year you will want to find a window for it to live in. Here’s a handy guide for commonly available orchid types, based on an unobstructed window, plant sitting right on the windowsill:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">North</span> facing window: Rather weak light. You might be able to grow a Paphiopedilum (Paph) there, or some Phalaenopsis (Phal). If it doesn’t bloom for you, supplement with fluorescent light.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">East</span> facing window: Great spot for Paphiopedilums and Phalaenopsis.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">West</span> facing window: Also great spot for Paphiopedilums and Phalaenopsis. Frequently this is also enough light for some Dendrobium (Den or Dend) plants or certain miniature Cattleya (Slc. or Pot.) hybrids, as well as several Oncidium types.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_y8Q8lCmygBw/SZjc__uFMkI/AAAAAAAAApg/0Tj1ZeK-jdw/s1600-h/Paph.DaleEdwardLawless.ThreeKings.light.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5303231553223340610" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_y8Q8lCmygBw/SZjc__uFMkI/AAAAAAAAApg/0Tj1ZeK-jdw/s320/Paph.DaleEdwardLawless.ThreeKings.light.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 239px; margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; width: 320px;" /></a>South</span> facing window: This is your brightest light, excellent for Cattleya hybrids (Slc., Lc., C., Blc., Pot., Sl., Lc….), many Dendrobiums, and Oncidium intergeneric hybrids.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">If you aren’t sure what category your plant-of-interest falls into, ask the grower for more details. They want you to succeed too!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;">I always recommend if you aren’t sure, go with a <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=71927&section_id=5519145">Phalaenopsis (Phal.)</a> or <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=71927&section_id=5519146">Paphiopedilum (Paph.)</a>. These types are easy to grow, adaptable, and you can always make a very bright window less so by setting the plant back from the glass a little or using a sheer curtain to filter the light. Other culture details are fairly similar for the two types. You can find an article on growing phals <a href="http://sapphirechild.blogspot.com/2008/02/basic-phalaenopsis-culture.html">here</a>.</span>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2112690319693290663.post-34932039355198387282011-07-25T13:02:00.002-04:002011-07-25T13:14:02.237-04:00UPDATE: IOSPE and Dockrillia bowmanii<span style="font-family: arial;">Hey folks, just a quick note to tell you I'm still alive and let you know there's a new photo of Dockrillia bowmanii on the <a href="http://www.orchidspecies.com/">Internet Orchid Species Photo Encyclopedia</a>! Check it out <a href="http://www.orchidspecies.com/denbowmanii.htm">here</a>. You may remember this photo - it is one of mine. You can see more photos of the species on <a href="http://sapphirechild.blogspot.com/2010/11/in-bloom-study-of-dendrobium-bowmanii.html">this older post</a>.<br /><br />I did at that time of that post introduce bowmanii and rigidum to each other, but they didn't really get along. There are no awesome seedlings to report. Not surprising. They're pretty different in terms of growth habit, and those weird Dendrobium alliance things can be picky about their dates. Pity.<br /><br />Remember, if you have orchid culture questions, please <a href="mailto:AskThePlantGeek@gmail.com?subject=Orchid%20Culture">feel free to ask.</a> I enjoy chatting about plants, but also questions are usually the inspiration for some of my best articles, and I could really use a jump start! My blogging battery seems a bit dead here. Sorry about that, working on it...</span>Juliahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06901550026894078246noreply@blogger.com1